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They noticed that a bra that fit one woman did not fit another woman with the same bra size. Their innovation was designed to make their dresses look better on the wearer by increasing the shaping of the bandeau bra to enhance and support women's breasts. They named the company Maiden Form , a deliberate contrast with the name of a competitor, "Boyishform Company. In , William Rosenthal, the president of Maiden Form , filed patents for nursing, full-figured, and the first seamed uplift bra.
These fashion changes coincided with health professionals beginning to link breast care and comfort to motherhood and lactation, and campaigned against breast flattening. The emphasis shifted from minimizing the breasts to uplifting and accenting them. Women, especially the younger set, welcomed the bra as a modern garment. While manufacturing was beginning to become more organized, homemade bras and bandeaux were still quite popular, usually made of white cotton, but they were little more than bust bodices with some separation.
The word "brassiere" was gradually shortened to "bra" in the s. According to a survey by Harper's Bazaar , "bra" was the most commonly used expression for the garment among college women. In October , the S. Camp and Company correlated the size and pendulousness of a woman's breasts to letters of the alphabet, A through D. Camp's advertising featured letter-labeled profiles of breasts in the February issue of Corset and Underwear Review.
In , Warner began to feature cup sizing in its products.
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Catalog companies continued to use the designations Small, Medium and Large through the s. As with other women's products, consumer adoption was encouraged by successful advertising and marketing campaigns. Saleswomen played a key role, helping clients find the right garment, as did the changing role of women in society. Much of this marketing was aimed at young women. Bras rapidly became a major industry over the s, with improvements in fiber technology, fabrics, colours, patterns, and options, and did much better than the retail industry in general.
Innovations included Warners' use of elastic, the adjustable strap, the sized cup, and padded bras for smaller-breasted women.
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In the US production moved outside of New York and Chicago, and advertising started to exploit Hollywood glamour and become more specialised. Department stores developed fitting areas, and customers, stores and manufacturers all benefited. Manufacturers even arranged fitting training courses for saleswomen. International sales started to form an increasing part of the U.
Prices started to make bras available to a wider market, and home-made competition dwindled. The culturally preferred silhouette among Western women during the s was a pointy bust, which further increased demand for a forming garment. The Second World War had a major impact on clothing. In the United States, military women were enlisted for the first time in the lower ranks and were fitted with uniform underwear. Willson Goggles, a Pennsylvania firm that manufactured safety equipment for manual workers, is believed to have introduced the plastic "SAF-T-BRA", designed to protect women on the factory floor.
Military terminology crept into product marketing, as represented by the highly structured, conically pointed Torpedo or Bullet bra , designed for "maximum projection". The bullet bra was worn by the Sweater Girl , a busty and wholesome "girl next door" whose tight-fitting outergarments accentuated her artificially enhanced curves. Underwire began to be used in bra construction.
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Actresses like Jane Russell appeared in photographs wearing the new bras that emphasized the "lift and separate" design, which influenced later bra design. Hughes created the bra on the basis of bridge building. After seeing Jane Russell and her bust in the movie, women sought to recreate the look on their own chests. The war presented unique challenges for industry.
Women's occupations shifted dramatically, with far more employed outside the home and in industry. Severe material shortages limited design choices. Advertising, promotion, and consumerism were limited but started to appear directed at minorities e.
Many manufacturers only survived by making tents and parachutes in addition to bras. American industry was now freed from European influences, particularly French, and it became more distinctive.
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Again there was concern about the use of badly needed steel in corsets and the British Government carried out a survey of women's usage of underwear in This showed that "on average, women owned 1. Following the Second World War, material availability, production and marketing, and demand for a greater variety of consumer goods, including bras. The baby boom specifically created a demand for maternity and nursing bras , and television provided new promotional opportunities. Manufacturers responded with new fabrics, colours, patterns, styles, padding and elasticity.
Hollywood fashion and glamour influenced women's fashion choices including bras like the cone-shaped, spiral-stitched bullet bra popularized by actresses like Patti Page , Marilyn Monroe , and Lana Turner , who was nicknamed the " Sweater Girl ". Bras for pre-teen and girls entering puberty were first marketed during the s. The s reflected increasing interest in quality and fashion. Maternity and mastectomy bras began to find a new respectability, and the increasing use of washing machines created a need for products that were more durable.
While girdles gave way to pantyhose, the bra continued to evolve.
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Marketing campaigns like those for the "Snoozable" and "Sweet Dreams"  promoted wearing a bra 24 hours a day. In at the feminist Miss America protest , protestors symbolically threw a number of feminine products into a "Freedom Trash Can. A local news story in the Atlantic City Press erroneously reported that "the bras, girdles, falsies, curlers, and copies of popular women's magazines burned in the 'Freedom Trash Can'". Feminism and "bra-burning" became linked in popular culture.
Dow has suggested that the association between feminism and bra-burning was encouraged by individuals who opposed the feminist movement. This might lead individuals to believe, as she wrote in her article "Feminism, Miss America, and Media Mythology," that the women were merely trying to be "trendy, and to attract men. This view may have supported the efforts of opponents to feminism and their desire to invalidate the movement. On June 4, , Rudy Gernreich 's single-piece, topless monokini swimsuit received worldwide media attention. In the process, he has ripped out the boning and wiring that made American swimsuits seagoing corsets.
Gernreich followed that in October with the "No Bra", a soft-cup, light-weight, seamless, sheer nylon and elastic tricot bra in sizes 32 to 36, A and B cups, manufactured by Exquisite Form. His minimalist bra was a revolutionary departure from the heavy, torpedo-shaped bras of the s, initiating a trend toward more natural shapes and soft, sheer fabrics. It has 54 design elements that lift and support the bustline while creating a deep plunge and push-together effect.
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Germaine Greer 's book The Female Eunuch became associated with the anti-bra movement because she pointed out how restrictive and uncomfortable a bra could be. In the s, like other garment makers, bra manufacturers moved production offshore.
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The contemporary bra also reflects advances in manufacturing and availability of fabric types and colours, enabling it to be transformed from a utilitarian item to a fashion statement, countering the negative attitudes some women had about bras. Designers have also incorporated numerous devices to produce varying shapes, cleavage, and to give women bras they could wear with open-back dresses, off-the-shoulder dresses, plunging necklines, and the like.
Throughout the s fashion led the way in the look and feel of bras. Western TV shows featured classy, powerful, and well-formed ladies, usually donning low cut tops to show an enhanced chest with an equally classy matching bra. The onset of classy and stylish Teddy suits also encompassed this decade and sales of silicone increased the need for bigger and more supportive bras. Models and celebrities all donned fashionable and extravagant bras, showing these off at red carpets events become the norm.
In contrast, feminist Susan Brownmiller in her book Femininity took the position that women without bras shock and anger men because men "implicitly think that they own breasts and that only they should remove bras. Manufacturers' marketing and advertising often appeals to fashion and image over fit, comfort and function.
With the growing popularity of jogging and other forms of exercise, it became apparent that there was a need for an athletic garment for women's breasts. One of the original Jogbras is bronzed and on display near the costume shop of the theatre. Two design challenges that bra manufacturers face at present seem paradoxical. On the one hand, there is a demand for minimal bras that allow plunging necklines and reduce interference with the lines of outer garments, such as the shelf bra.
On the other hand, body mass and bust size is increasing,  leading to a higher demand for larger sizes. The s brought two large design changes to the bra. This construction can include padded bras, contour bras and so-called T-shirt bras.
Also new and ubiquitous in the s was the popularity of printed designs such as floral or patterned prints. Large corporations such as HanesBrands Inc.
Victoria's Secret is an exception. Feminist author Iris Marion Young wrote in that the bra "serves as a barrier to touch" and that a braless woman is " deobjectified ", eliminating the "hard, pointy look that phallic culture posits as the norm. Like other clothing, bras were initially sewn by small production companies and supplied to various retailers. The term "cup" was not used to describe bras until , and manufacturers relied on stretchable cups to accommodate different sized breasts. Camp and Company correlated the size and pendulousness of a woman's breasts to letters of the alphabet: Adjustable bands were introduced using multiple eye and hook positions in the s.
There is an urban legend that the bra was invented by a man named Otto Titzling "tit sling" who lost a lawsuit with Phillip de Bra "fill up the bra".